How to check a used film camera

What to ask before you buy, and the five-minute tests to do the day it arrives, while you can still return it.

Before you buy

  1. Ask whether it's been film tested. "Tested" can mean the shutter clicks. "Film tested" means a roll was shot and developed: the strongest proof it works. On every camera page we show which listings say so.
  2. Read anything marked "read" or "as is". Japanese dealers put "Read" at the start of a title when they describe a fault in the listing. "As is" and "sold as seen" mean no returns for faults.
  3. Check what's included. Body only or with a lens? For medium format, is the film back (and its dark slide) included? These change the price more than condition.
  4. Look at the light seals in the photos. Black foam around the back door that looks shiny, sticky or crumbly will leak light. Budget about £20 to replace it.
  5. Know the model's weak spot. Every camera page lists the faults that model is known for, like the Canon A-series squeal or the Ricoh GR1's LCD bleed.
  6. Compare the landed price. From Japan or the EU you pay 20% import VAT. Our prices already include it, so a "cheap" listing from abroad is compared fairly.

The day it arrives

  1. Battery first. Fit a fresh battery (see the battery finder) and check the meter responds to light and dark.
  2. Shutter speeds. Open the back, set the widest aperture and fire at every speed against a bright window. Slow speeds should sound longer; fast speeds should still open fully.
  3. The aperture. On an SLR, look into the lens from the front while you fire it: the blades should snap closed to the set aperture and back open instantly. Oily or slow blades need a service.
  4. The lens. Shine a torch through it from the back. A few dust specks are normal; haze, fungus (web-like threads) and separation (rainbow patches) are not.
  5. Film advance and rewind. The lever should wind smoothly and stop firmly, and the frame counter should move.
  6. Battery compartment. Look for green or white corrosion on the contacts. A little can be cleaned; a lot may mean broken wiring.
  7. Shoot a test roll. Cheap colour film, a mix of bright and dim scenes, and get it developed quickly so you can still return the camera if something's wrong.

Common questions

What does CLA mean on a film camera?

Clean, Lubricate and Adjust: a service where the shutter, aperture and film transport are cleaned, re-oiled and set to the right speeds. A CLA usually costs £60 to £150 and is worth paying for on an older mechanical camera.

How do I know if a film camera has light leaks?

Look at the foam seals in the channels around the back door and the hinge: if they're sticky, crumbly or missing, they leak. On film, leaks show as orange or red streaks from the edge of the frame. New seals cost about £20 as a kit.

How can I test a film camera without film?

Open the back, set the lens to its widest aperture and fire the shutter at each speed while looking through it at a bright window. Slow speeds should stay open visibly longer, the fast ones should still open fully, and the blades or curtains shouldn't stick.

Is fungus in a lens a problem?

Yes: it etches the glass and spreads. Shine a torch through the lens from the back and look for web-like threads. Light haze can often be cleaned; fungus and separation (rainbow patches between elements) are expensive to fix.